Derawan Islands Travel Guide: Kalimantan’s Best Kept Secret for Diving & Beaches

💰 Click here to see Indonesia Budget Breakdown

💰 Prices updated: August, 2026. Budget figures are estimates — always verify before travel.

Exchange Rate: $1 USD = Rp17,720.00

Daily Budget (per person)

Shoestring: Rp389,840 – Rp1,151,800 ($22.00 – $65.00)

Mid-range: Rp886,000 – Rp1,772,000 ($50.00 – $100.00)

Comfortable: Rp4,430,000 – Rp8,860,000 ($250.00 – $500.00)

Accommodation (per night)

Hostel/guesthouse: Rp53,160 – Rp744,240 ($3.00 – $42.00)

Mid-range hotel: Rp460,720 – Rp1,772,000 ($26.00 – $100.00)

Food (per meal)

Budget meal: Rp30,000.00 ($1.69)

Mid-range meal: Rp105,000.00 ($5.93)

Upscale meal: Rp1,250,000.00 ($70.54)

Transport

Single metro/bus trip: Rp5,000.00 ($0.28)

Monthly transport pass: Rp886,000.00 ($50.00)

Getting to the Derawan Islands in 2026 still involves a chain of connections that will make most travelers hesitate — and that’s exactly why the archipelago remains extraordinary. Unlike Bali or Lombok, there’s no direct tourist bus, no budget airline dropping you at the doorstep, and no Instagram-famous beach club waiting at the end. What you get instead is a scattering of tiny islands off the northeast coast of Borneo where whale sharks cruise through shallow water, non-stinging jellyfish drift in a landlocked lake, and green sea turtles surface for air just metres from the wooden jetties. If you can handle the logistics, Derawan will be the best trip you take in Indonesia.

What Makes Derawan Different from Every Other Indonesian Island

Most of Indonesia’s famous island destinations sell themselves on beaches or surf. Derawan’s currency is biodiversity, and the concentration of marine life here is genuinely unusual even by Indonesian standards. The Berau coral triangle — the stretch of ocean surrounding these islands — sits inside one of the most biodiverse marine ecosystems on earth. That’s not marketing copy. Marine biologists have been saying it for two decades.

The islands attract a specific kind of traveler: divers who’ve already done Komodo and Raja Ampat and want something that feels less developed, photographers chasing manta ray footage, and independent adventurers who find the logistics a challenge worth accepting. Families with older children visit too, particularly for the Kakaban jellyfish lake — one of only two marine lakes in the world where jellyfish have lost their sting through evolution.

The vibe across the islands is slow, quiet, and genuinely remote. On Derawan island itself — the most populated of the group — the main “street” is a narrow wooden boardwalk running along the water, and the sound of the evening is outboard motors idling and the slap of small waves against stilted houses. No nightclubs, no crowds, no traffic.

The Main Islands: What Each One Actually Offers

Pulau Derawan

The hub of the archipelago and the only island with a concentration of guesthouses, warungs, and a small community. Most visitors base themselves here and take day trips by speedboat to the other islands. The house reef directly off the jetty produces regular green turtle sightings — sit on the dock at dusk and you’ll almost certainly see one surface, its shell catching the orange light as it exhales before diving again. Underwater visibility in the shallows routinely exceeds 15 metres.

Pulau Kakaban

Home to the famous Kakaban Lake — a brackish, landlocked marine lake filled with millions of jellyfish that have evolved without stinging cells over thousands of years of isolation. Swimming through them is disorienting in the best possible way: jellyfish pressing softly against your skin from every direction, the water thick with translucent, pulsing life. The surrounding reef wall at Kakaban is also considered one of the best dive sites in Kalimantan.

Pulau Maratua

The largest island in the group and the most developed, with several mid-range and upscale resorts now operating along its lagoon. Maratua has its own small airstrip that received upgrades in 2024, and as of 2026 handles limited charter flights from Balikpapan and Tarakan — reducing travel time significantly for those who can afford the pricing. The lagoon diving around Maratua is exceptional, with consistent manta ray sightings at cleaning stations.

Pulau Sangalaki

A protected sea turtle nesting site and one of the best manta ray locations in the entire archipelago. Sangalaki has no permanent accommodation — day trips only. Manta rays gather here in predictable numbers, often cruising through in groups of four to eight, their wingspan broad enough to cast a shadow you can feel underwater as they pass overhead.

Getting to the Derawan Islands in 2026

The standard routing remains: fly to Tarakan (TRK) or Berau/Kalimarau (BEJ) in East Kalimantan, then travel overland and by speedboat to Derawan. Both Garuda Indonesia and Batik Air serve these routes from Jakarta (Soekarno-Hatta) and Balikpapan. As of early 2026, Lion Air has reinstated its Berau route from Jakarta with daily service — check current schedules as this route has historically been intermittent.

From Berau (the town of Tanjung Redeb), shared speedboats to Derawan island run daily in the morning, taking approximately 1.5 to 2 hours. The journey costs around IDR 150,000–200,000 per person on a shared boat. Private charters are available for IDR 700,000–1,000,000 and offer flexibility on departure time.

From Tarakan, the routing involves a speedboat to Tanjung Batu followed by another boat to Derawan — total travel time is longer (3–4 hours on water) and this route is generally recommended only if you’re already in Tarakan for other reasons.

The Maratua airstrip, upgraded in 2024, now handles small charter aircraft more reliably. Several Derawan resort packages include charter flights from Balikpapan bundled into their pricing — worth calculating against the cost of commercial flights plus boat transfers if your time is limited.

Top Experiences on the Water and Under It

Diving the Kakaban Wall

The outer wall of Kakaban island drops sharply from the reef flat into deep blue, and the current here pushes nutrients up along the wall continuously. Schooling barracuda, Napoleon wrasse, and occasional hammerhead sharks patrol this area. Most dive operators on Derawan island run two-tank trips here for around IDR 600,000–800,000 including equipment rental.

Snorkeling the Jellyfish Lake

Non-divers can snorkel Kakaban Lake — masks and fins only, no scuba tanks permitted in the lake to protect the ecosystem. The entry requires a short hike over the ridge of the island. There is a conservation fee collected at the lake, currently set at IDR 150,000 per person in 2026.

Manta Ray Encounters at Sangalaki

Day trips to Sangalaki run from Derawan in about 45 minutes by speedboat. The manta cleaning stations are the primary draw — mantas hover in shallow water while cleaner fish work over their skin, making for sustained underwater viewing at depths of 5–12 metres. Best conditions are between March and November.

Turtle Watching from the Derawan Jetty

No boat required. Green sea turtles feed on the seagrass beds around Derawan island year-round and surface regularly near the main pier. Early morning and late afternoon are peak times. Resist the urge to touch — the “no contact with wildlife” rule is enforced by local guides and guesthouse owners who’ve built their livelihoods around keeping this ecosystem functional.

Where to Eat on the Derawan Islands

Food on Derawan island is simple and almost entirely seafood-driven. The main strip of warungs runs along the boardwalk, and most operate on a “come look at what’s available today” system — there’s no printed menu, just a display of what came off the boats that morning.

Warung Bu Lastri near the main jetty is consistently recommended by long-stay visitors for its grilled fish (ikan bakar) served with rice, sambal, and a broth-based vegetable soup. A full meal costs IDR 35,000–50,000. The fish arrives crispy-skinned and smoky from the charcoal, the sambal punishingly hot and bright with fresh lime.

Warung Pak Herman operates in the evenings and is better known for its seafood soup — the broth slow and deeply saline, built from whatever shellfish and fish scraps didn’t sell during the day, topped with shallots fried in coconut oil. Local fishermen eat here. Prices are IDR 25,000–40,000 per bowl with rice.

For cold drinks, a handful of small shops along the boardwalk stock bottled water, Bintang (where available — supply is inconsistent), instant coffee, and snacks. Don’t arrive expecting espresso or smoothie bowls. Bring your own coffee if that matters to you.

On Maratua, the resort restaurants serve more structured menus at significantly higher prices — expect IDR 80,000–150,000 per dish at resort dining rooms.

What Happens After Dark on Derawan

The honest answer: not much, and this is a feature rather than a problem. By 9pm, most of the island is quiet. The warungs shut their lights down around 8:30–9pm. Generator power on parts of the island is limited in duration.

What the evenings do offer is genuinely spectacular: bioluminescent plankton in the shallows that glow blue-green when disturbed, best seen from the beach or a low dock with no light pollution. Drag your hand through the water and watch it light up around your fingers. This is worth staying up for.

Guesthouses often become the social gathering point — travellers comparing notes from the day’s diving, sharing beer from coolers, watching the kind of star display that’s impossible in any city. Some operators run night snorkeling sessions for an additional IDR 100,000–200,000 to see octopus, lobster, and sleeping reef fish in the shallows.

Shopping and Souvenirs

Derawan is not a shopping destination — set that expectation clearly before you arrive. The small warung-style shops sell practical items: sunscreen, snacks, batteries, basic dive equipment like masks and fins at inflated prices.

For souvenirs, your best option is in Tanjung Redeb (Berau town) before or after your island time. The main market area near the town centre carries locally produced items including woven rattan goods, hand-painted batik from the Berau region, and dried seafood products that make unusual gifts. A woven rattan bag runs IDR 80,000–150,000 depending on size and craftsmanship.

On the island itself, a small number of locals sell handmade shell jewellery near the main jetty. Verify that any shell product is legally sourced — protected species are still occasionally traded illegally here, and import regulations in many countries prohibit certain shell products.

Where to Stay: Accommodation Across the Islands

Budget (Derawan Island Guesthouses)

Simple wooden guesthouses along the boardwalk offer fan rooms with shared bathrooms for IDR 150,000–250,000 per night. Air conditioning is available in some rooms for IDR 300,000–400,000. These places are clean and functional — don’t expect hot water or strong WiFi. Penginapan Yuliani and Losmen Danakan are frequently mentioned in 2025–2026 visitor reports for reliability and helpful staff.

Mid-Range (Derawan Island)

A small number of guesthouses have upgraded their rooms with private bathrooms, AC, and better beds. Rates run IDR 450,000–700,000 per night. Derawan Dive Resort sits at the mid-range tier and includes basic dive packages in their room pricing, making it practical for divers who want to avoid coordinating separate operators.

Comfortable (Maratua)

Maratua island hosts the archipelago’s upscale options. Maratua Paradise Resort and Big Fish Diving Resort offer bungalows over the water or beachfront, with rates from IDR 1,500,000–3,500,000 per night including some meals. These properties cater to international dive groups and couples who want comfort alongside access to the reef.

Best Time to Visit the Derawan Islands

The dry season runs from March through October, with the peak period falling between May and September. Sea conditions are calmest during this window, visibility underwater is at its highest (often 20–30 metres on good days), and the speedboat crossings between islands are manageable even in smaller boats.

Manta ray season at Sangalaki peaks between March and November. Turtle nesting on Sangalaki and Derawan occurs year-round but peaks between July and September. Whale shark sightings around Derawan have historically been most frequent between October and December — the transition between seasons when baitfish concentrate near the surface.

The wet season (November through February) brings rougher seas, reduced underwater visibility from river runoff, and occasional cancellations of speedboat crossings between islands. Some guesthouses reduce services or close partially during this period. Travelling in wet season is possible but requires flexibility and a realistic expectation of lost dive days.

Avoid the peak Indonesian school holiday windows (late June through July) if you prefer fewer domestic tour groups — this is when shared speedboats are most crowded and guesthouses on Derawan island fill earliest.

Practical Tips for Visiting in 2026

Cash is essential. There are no ATMs on any of the Derawan islands as of 2026. Withdraw sufficient rupiah in Berau (Tanjung Redeb) before boarding your speedboat. Budget generously — unexpected costs like private boat charters, conservation entry fees, or equipment rentals add up quickly.

Mobile connectivity is limited. Telkomsel provides the most consistent signal on Derawan island, but speeds are slow and coverage drops entirely on the outer islands. Download offline maps (Maps.me or Google Maps offline) before you leave Berau.

Conservation fees apply at several sites — Kakaban Lake (IDR 150,000), certain dive sites (IDR 50,000–100,000). These fees fund local marine protection efforts and are non-negotiable.

Sunscreen rules: reef-safe sunscreen only. Several dive operators and guesthouses will turn away guests using standard chemical sunscreens, particularly oxybenzone-containing products, which are now informally banned at several protected sites. Bring mineral-based sunscreen from the mainland.

Medical facilities on the islands are extremely limited — a basic health post exists on Derawan but serious medical issues require evacuation to Berau. Travel insurance with emergency evacuation coverage is not optional here.

Language: Basic Indonesian goes a very long way. Very few warung owners or boat operators speak English at a conversational level. Learn numbers, food words, and direction phrases before you arrive.

2026 Budget Breakdown: Daily Costs by Tier

Budget traveller (IDR 350,000–600,000/day): Fan room guesthouse, warung meals three times daily, one snorkeling trip by shared boat. Does not include dive packages or entry fees.

Mid-range traveller (IDR 800,000–1,500,000/day): AC guesthouse room with private bathroom, two warung meals plus one resort meal, one two-tank dive trip with equipment. Includes a day trip to Kakaban with entry fee.

Comfortable traveller (IDR 2,000,000–4,000,000/day): Maratua resort accommodation, all meals included or resort dining, private boat charters for island hopping, multiple daily dives with professional guides. Excludes charter flight premium.

Getting to the islands represents an unavoidable additional cost regardless of tier. Budget for round-trip flights to Berau (IDR 1,500,000–3,500,000 from Jakarta depending on airline and timing) plus speedboat transfers (IDR 300,000–400,000 round trip shared).

Frequently Asked Questions

Do I need to be a certified diver to enjoy the Derawan Islands?

No. Non-divers have excellent options including snorkeling the Kakaban jellyfish lake, snorkeling Derawan’s house reef for turtle sightings, and boat trips to Sangalaki for manta ray viewing from the surface. That said, diving unlocks the best of what this archipelago offers, and the area is suitable for beginner divers in calm conditions.

Is it safe to swim with the jellyfish at Kakaban Lake?

Yes. The jellyfish in Kakaban Lake have evolved without functioning stinging cells due to the lake’s isolation from the open ocean. Contact with them causes no pain or injury. The lake’s ecosystem is fragile, however — no sunscreen, no fins that stir the sediment, and no touching or handling the jellyfish. Follow all guide instructions carefully.

How many days should I spend on the Derawan Islands?

A minimum of four nights allows you to comfortably visit Kakaban, Sangalaki, and Maratua with dedicated time on Derawan’s house reef. Divers typically stay five to seven nights. Given the distance and logistics of getting here, spending fewer than three nights makes the trip hard to justify in terms of time and cost.

Can I visit Derawan as a day trip from Berau?

Technically yes — boats leave Berau in the morning and return in the afternoon. In practice, a day trip only gives you a few hours on the island and no time for outer island visits. The journey itself is nearly two hours each way. Staying overnight is strongly recommended for anyone who has made the effort to reach this part of Kalimantan.

Are there whale sharks at the Derawan Islands?

Whale shark sightings occur regularly around Derawan island, particularly between October and December when baitfish are concentrated near the surface. Sightings are not guaranteed and cannot be scheduled — most happen as unplanned encounters during regular snorkeling or diving. Local boat operators sometimes spot them feeding near the surface and can take you out for a look when conditions allow.

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📷 Featured image by ahmad fazlinur ramadhan on Unsplash.