Derawan Islands: The Maldives of Indonesia You Haven’t Heard Of (Yet)

Still Flying Under the Radar — But Not for Long

In 2026, Bali is busier than ever, Lombok’s Gili Islands are fully on the international backpacker map, and Raja Ampat gets name-dropped in every “hidden gem” list despite being anything but hidden. If you’re chasing the kind of place where the water is electric blue, turtles outnumber tourists, and a jellyfish can float across your palm without stinging you — Derawan is where you need to be. The challenge has always been getting there. That’s changing, slowly, and this guide covers exactly how to do it in 2026 without losing your mind or your budget.

What Makes Derawan Different

The Derawan Archipelago sits off the northeast coast of East Kalimantan (Borneo), in the Berau Regency. It’s not a single island — it’s a scattered cluster of around 31 islands and islets, four of which matter most to visitors. The surrounding Coral Triangle waters hold some of the highest marine biodiversity on the planet. That’s not marketing language. Scientists use it too.

What separates Derawan from other “paradise island” destinations in Indonesia is the combination of accessibility improvements (more on that below), the near-total absence of mass tourism infrastructure, and marine encounters that you simply cannot get elsewhere. Hawksbill turtles nest on the beach directly in front of the guesthouses on Derawan Island. Not in a protected enclosure. On the beach. At night, you walk out from your room and there they are.

The vibe here is genuinely unhurried. The local Bajau and Bugis fishing communities still shape daily life. Stilted wooden houses extend over the water. Children jump off jetties into the sea. The sunsets over the Sulawesi Sea are the kind that make you feel slightly embarrassed for every other sunset you’ve called beautiful.

The Islands at a Glance

Understanding the archipelago’s layout saves confusion when you’re planning. Each island has a distinct character.

• Pulau Derawan — The main hub. Has the most accommodation, warung food stalls, and is where the turtle nesting happens. Best base for first-time visitors.
• Pulau Kakaban — Home to the famous saltwater jellyfish lake (more on this below). Uninhabited. Day trip only.
• Pulau Sangalaki — A protected marine reserve known for manta ray cleaning stations and nesting green turtles. No overnight stays permitted.
• Pulau Maratua — The largest island in the group. Has a couple of upmarket resorts and a stunning lagoon. Better for travellers wanting more comfort and seclusion.

Most travellers base themselves on Derawan or Maratua and do day trips to Kakaban and Sangalaki. Trying to island-hop between all four with heavy luggage is more hassle than it’s worth.

Underwater Derawan

This is the reason people make the effort. The diving and snorkelling around the Derawan Archipelago is legitimately world-class, and in 2026 it remains less crowded than comparable sites in Raja Ampat or Komodo.

On any given morning dive at Sangalaki, you might find yourself hovering at 12 metres with four or five manta rays circling a cleaning station below you — their wingspans brushing three to four metres, their pale undersides catching the filtered light. It’s completely silent except for the sound of your own breathing. Those are the dives that stay with you.

The jellyfish lake on Kakaban is something else entirely. The lake is landlocked and ancient — separated from the ocean so long ago that the jellyfish inside evolved to lose their sting. You snorkel through thousands of them. They brush against your arms, your legs, your face. The sensation is a soft, pulsing pressure — slightly surreal, not unpleasant. No other jellyfish lake in Indonesia is accessible quite like this one.

Other notable dive sites include:

• Turtle Town (near Derawan Island) — Multiple turtles resting on the seabed, often undisturbed by divers.
• Barracuda Point (Kakaban) — Large schools of barracuda in open water.
• Blue Trigger Wall (Maratua) — Steep wall diving with good current, triggerfish, and occasional reef sharks.

Visibility averages 15–25 metres in good conditions. Water temperature sits around 27–29°C year-round.

The Food Scene on the Islands

Derawan Island’s food scene is small, honest, and surprisingly satisfying if you calibrate your expectations. This is not a gourmet destination. It is a very good place to eat fresh seafood at prices that feel almost absurd.

The warungs along the main jetty area serve grilled fish caught the same morning — whole snapper or grouper, charcoal-blackened on the outside, still juicy at the bone, served with rice, sambal, and a wedge of lime. A full plate costs around Rp 35,000–55,000. That’s the meal to order, every time.

Warung Bu Haji (ask any local — everyone knows it) is the closest thing to a local institution on Derawan Island. The ikan bakar (grilled fish) here is consistently excellent, and the homemade sambal has real heat without drowning the fish. Tables spill out onto the dock in the evenings. The smell of charcoal and the sound of the sea make the meal.

On Maratua, resort restaurants handle most of the eating. Food quality is higher, but so are prices. Expect Rp 80,000–150,000 per main course at the resort dining rooms. Fresh coconut water is available everywhere on both islands for around Rp 10,000–15,000.

Getting There in 2026

This is where most Derawan trip planning falls apart. Getting here takes commitment, but the route is clearer in 2026 than it was two years ago.

By Air: The primary gateway is Kalimarau Airport (BEJ) in Berau, East Kalimantan. In 2026, Garuda Indonesia, Batik Air, and Wings Air all operate connections from Balikpapan (BPN), which in turn connects to Jakarta, Makassar, and Surabaya. Batik Air has added direct Jakarta–Berau service on certain days of the week — check schedules as these shift seasonally. Balikpapan to Berau is roughly 50–55 minutes by air.

From Berau to the islands: From Tanjung Batu (the coastal departure point, about 1.5–2 hours by road from Berau town), speedboats run to Derawan Island in approximately 30–45 minutes. The crossing costs around Rp 100,000–150,000 per person on shared boats. Private charters run Rp 400,000–700,000 depending on boat size and negotiation. Early morning is the most comfortable time to cross — afternoon seas can get choppy.

Overland: Technically possible from Samarinda or Balikpapan by road and then boat, but the journey stretches to 8–10 hours and is only worth considering if you have a very specific reason to avoid flying.

Getting Around the Archipelago

Inter-island transport runs on a combination of scheduled shared boats and chartered klotok (wooden motorboats). There is no ferry system in the European sense. You negotiate with boat operators on the jetty, or your guesthouse arranges it for you.

A day trip package from Derawan Island covering Kakaban, Sangalaki, and snorkelling stops costs approximately Rp 400,000–600,000 per person when joining a group, or Rp 1,500,000–2,500,000 for a private charter. Groups of four or more should always try to charter — it’s more flexible and often cheaper per head.

Travel between Derawan Island and Maratua takes 45–60 minutes by speedboat. Transfers are not always on a fixed schedule, so plan the night before and confirm your departure time with your host.

Day Trip or Overnight?

Skip the day trip. It’s not realistic from anywhere convenient, and even if you managed to arrange it from Berau town, you’d spend more time in transit than on the water.

The minimum stay that makes the journey worthwhile is three nights — ideally split between Derawan Island and Maratua. Three nights gives you time for two or three full dive or snorkel days, a visit to the jellyfish lake, turtle watching at night, and a genuinely relaxed morning where you’re not racing back to a boat.

Five nights is the sweet spot for divers who want to cover the major sites without feeling rushed. Maratua’s lagoon alone deserves half a day of just floating around doing nothing. Budget and mid-range travellers tend to base entirely on Derawan Island. Those with more flexibility on cost will find Maratua more comfortable for longer stays.

2026 Budget Reality

Accommodation

• Budget: Basic guesthouses and homestays on Derawan Island — Rp 150,000–300,000 per night. Fan rooms, shared bathrooms in some cases, but genuinely hospitable.
• Mid-range: Air-conditioned rooms with private bathrooms on Derawan Island — Rp 350,000–600,000 per night.
• Comfortable: Maratua Paradise Resort or similar — Rp 1,200,000–2,500,000 per night, meals partially included.

Diving

• Single fun dive with equipment: Rp 350,000–500,000
• Two-dive package: Rp 600,000–900,000
• PADI Open Water course (full): Rp 4,500,000–6,500,000

Daily Living Costs

• Budget traveller (homestay, warung food, shared boats): Rp 300,000–500,000 per day excluding diving
• Mid-range traveller (AC room, mix of warung and resort meals, one dive per day): Rp 800,000–1,400,000 per day
• Comfortable traveller (Maratua resort, two dives per day, private transfers): Rp 2,500,000–4,000,000 per day

Practical Tips Before You Go

• Best season: April to November offers the calmest seas and best visibility. Peak visibility for manta rays at Sangalaki runs June–October. Avoid January and February — swells make crossings uncomfortable and some operators suspend service.
• Connectivity: Mobile signal on Derawan Island is functional but slow. Telkomsel has the best coverage. Maratua resorts offer WiFi but don’t expect streaming speeds. Accept the digital detox.
• Cash only: There are no ATMs on any of the islands. Bring all the cash you need from Berau town before you cross. In 2026, some Maratua resorts accept bank transfers via Indonesian apps (GoPay, OVO), but this cannot be relied upon universally.
• Entry requirements: No special permit is needed for Derawan or Maratua. Diving at Sangalaki requires a conservation fee — around Rp 50,000–100,000 per visit, collected by your dive operator or boat captain.
• Health: Bring any prescription medication, reef-safe sunscreen, and a basic first aid kit. The nearest proper medical facility is in Berau town. For serious emergencies, evacuation to Balikpapan would be necessary.
• Reef etiquette: The coral here is genuinely pristine in many areas. No touching, no standing on coral, no taking shells. These rules are not enforced aggressively, but consider yourself morally obligated.

Frequently Asked Questions

Is Derawan suitable for non-divers?

Yes, fully. Snorkelling around Derawan Island and at the jellyfish lake on Kakaban is excellent without any diving experience. Turtle watching on the beach at night, the island atmosphere, and the food scene all stand on their own. Non-divers who enjoy the ocean will find plenty to fill three to five days comfortably.

Do I need to book accommodation in advance?

In peak season (June–September), yes — especially for mid-range and comfortable options on Maratua. Budget homestays on Derawan Island are more forgiving, but arriving without any booking during high season is a gamble. Book at least two to three weeks ahead for peak travel dates in 2026.

Is Derawan family-friendly?

It depends on the ages of your children. Older kids and teenagers who can swim and snorkel will have an incredible time. The islands are very safe, low-traffic, and the turtle encounters are genuinely memorable for young travellers. Toddlers or non-swimmers may find the trip more challenging given the boat-heavy logistics and limited on-land entertainment.

How does Derawan compare to Raja Ampat?

Both sit within the Coral Triangle and offer world-class marine life. Raja Ampat has greater biodiversity and more dramatic topography. Derawan is significantly easier and cheaper to reach, less crowded, and the jellyfish lake experience is unique to this archipelago. For most travellers, Derawan is the more accessible and affordable of the two extraordinary destinations.

What’s the jellyfish lake actually like — is it safe?

The jellyfish in Kakaban Lake have lost their stinging capacity through millennia of evolution in the landlocked environment. Snorkelling through them is safe and completely unlike anything else you’ll experience in Indonesia. The water is warm, slightly murky, and the jellyfish — in their thousands — move in slow, mesmerising pulses around you. Wear a rash guard for comfort, not protection.

📷 Featured image by Pukpik on Unsplash.